The Abler Soul
Being eternally touched by the hand of Pachamama
I can’t stop thinking about Peru.
I have traveled a decent amount, and I can honestly say Peru was the most impactful and enriching country I have ever visited. As much as I have enjoyed and loved the many places I have visited, Peru resonated and affected me in a way I hadn't expected. I fell in love with the people, the geography, the depth of its history, and its rich Indigenous culture that, despite the Spanish conquests and colonization, continues to flourish today.
While there, I gained deep insights into the cultures of the Andes, especially the Incan and Pre-Incan civilizations that held the land, sky, Sun, Moon, and Stars in such high regard. Even today, many Peruvians are direct descendants of the Incas and still actively participate in ancestral traditions and beliefs, which we had the opportunity to learn about and witness.
However, my most profound experiences in Peru involved a significant connection with Pachamama that will remain with me forever. Even as I write this, I can still sense the energy and feeling of wholeness I experienced when I was there, and I am genuinely moved by how deeply affected I was.
Pachamama is the revered Earth Mother goddess among the Indigenous communities of the Andes. She is the mother of Inti, the sun god, and Inti’s wife, Mama Killa, the moon goddess. Pachamama is also a fertility deity who oversees the cycles of planting and harvesting. She is viewed as a divine source of life and an ever-present energy on our planet. In the sacred realm of Amantaní Island on Lake Titicaca, she is honored through the mountains and stones they have dedicated to her. Each year, the island community gathers at her temple which sits high on the Mountain to perform a llama sacrifice, offering gratitude to Pachamama and seeking her blessings to ensure a bountiful harvest.
On July 3rd, 2024, we found ourselves on Amantaní Island, where we had the privilege and honor of staying with a local Indigenous family. After dinner, a small group of us went on a hike to the island's summit to visit the sacred temples of Pachatata and Pachamama.
Lake Titicaca rests at an altitude of around 12,507 feet, and our trek to the temples brought us close to 14,000 feet. Fortunately, we had already acclimatized to the high elevation, and although the air was thin, we were lucky enough to avoid any serious altitude sickness. As we climbed higher, however, we stopped to pick wild muña, an Andean mint used since Inca times to help cope with the altitude. We rubbed it between our hands to release its fragrant aroma and inhaled it when we stopped for a breather.
Pachatata (Father Earth), was the lower temple we first arrived at. The views over the lake were stunning, and it was a nice place to rest and catch our breath. At the summit was the stone temple, which locals said to find a small rock, hold it in your hand, and circle the temple three times in a counterclockwise direction while contemplating your goals or desires for the upcoming year. After your third rotation, you were to find a small hole in the wall and place your stone inside it. The intention was that your stone was now energized with your wishes.
As we stood looking across the island towards the Temple of Pachamama, we knew we didn’t have long before the sunset. While the rest of the small group decided to turn back down the mountain, my wife and I, and a wonderful French woman named Célia whom we had met, were determined to reach the higher peak of Pachamama and watch the sun setting over the lake.
The trails were paved with stone, and local women were covering the potatoes in the fields or sitting alongside the trail wall, knitting and selling their wares. The hike wasn’t overly challenging, but the air was very thin, and we took it slow.
Once we arrived at the top of Pachamama, the energy was palpable. In the fading light, we walked around her temple and quietly sought our spots to sit and watch the sun dip below the horizon over the lake. It was truly one of the most enchanting and magical experiences of my life. The sunset's beauty lingered long after the sun sank behind the mainland mountains; the light didn't seem to want to disappear. Perhaps because we were only fifteen degrees below the equator, Inti’s rays painted the sky in vibrant yellows, oranges, and reds, casting a warm, golden glow against the deep blue and purple canvas of the evening sky. After several minutes of serene contemplation, we took a final deep breath, soaking in Pachamama’s eternal energy before beginning our descent down the mountain. Fortunately, Célia had a headlamp, which made the trek back much less intimidating.
Célia, if you are reading this—I’m so glad that our paths crossed and we shared this incredible experience with you!
I experienced the sacred energy of Pachamama once more during our visit to Machu Picchu. My wife and I arrived there at 5:45 AM; a thick fog obscured everything around us, making it hard to see the nearby trees. After a couple of hours exploring the Incan city entirely on our own, we ascended to the elevated viewpoint overlooking Machu Picchu. We remained patient, and about thirty minutes later we were finally rewarded as the clouds, fog, and mist began to lift, unveiling the stunning Huayna Picchu, which was still partially being tightly hugged by clouds. The sun's rays, like a warm embrace, illuminated the vibrant greens of the flat land on Machu Picchu, showcasing its beauty for several glorious minutes before the clouds rolled in again. Moments later, it was as if the landscape was playing a game of peekaboo, revealing herself once more in a display of breathtaking splendor. This was more than just a view; I sensed an intense connection with myself and the eternal spirit of Pachamama and the Incas, who once revered this land as sacred, honoring the Sun, Moon, Mountains, and Earth. It was a deeply emotional experience and one that I will never forget.
For months now, these thoughts and emotions have lingered in my mind, and it has become evident that I have yet to visit a country that has touched me as profoundly as Peru.
Speck Mountain, a Chicago-based band that released three albums from 2007 to 2012, has often been compared to Mazzy Star and Spiritualized. While these are worthy and respected bands, the comparison does not fully capture the unique identity and justice that Speck Mountain deserves.
The song ‘I Feel Eternal,’ off their 2009 album, Some Sweet Relief, exudes warmth and a dreamy vibe with a haunting gospel undertone in its melodic, reverb-soaked drowsiness. Described as "ambient soul" by the band, this label aptly characterizes the hypnotic drone of the music, the subtle accent of horns, and Marie-Claire Balabanian's gentle yet soulful vocal delivery. Balabanian's voice shines, casting a warm light, illuminating the song as she softly sings...
The abler soul will always know the way
And oh...I gotta hand upon my soul
And I…
I feel eternal
Visiting Machu Picchu and the temple of Pachamama was a profound honor, and no photograph can truly capture their essence. As I reflect on my experiences at these sacred sites, I can genuinely say that I felt the spirit of Pachamama enveloping and touching me. And in those moments…
My soul felt eternal.
I enjoyed reading your recreation of what was clearly a profound experience and your reflections on how it still feels so present for you. I've been to Machu Picchu and Late Titicaca and, in a way, that makes me feel a connection to what you're describing. But what comes through more strongly are two other things. The first is how we connect to time, experience and spirituality through the spaces and places that we connect with, wherever they may be. The other is how well you've captured how these affective moments combine the eternal and what is unique to the present. You and I and many others may have walked on some of the same paths and these are, at least to currently living humans, relatively unchanged. But what transpired in those specific places at those specific times is different for all of us. The collective experience of the former helps us underatnd the individual experience of the latter.
Michael, I restacked your article with this note, gleaned more or less from your own words. I hope it draws a few more readers to it.
"In this article by Michael K. Fell, he describes his recent visit to Peru, where he gained deep insights into the cultures of the Andes, and the Incan and Pre-Incan civilizations that held the land there. I found his report to be insightful, informative, and a truly interesting read."